What Did the Jewish Ghetto Eat in Rome?

By Alice Nichols

The Jewish Ghetto in Rome has a rich history that dates back to the 16th century. Established by Pope Paul IV, it served as a segregated area where Jews were required to reside. Despite the difficult conditions and limited resources, the Jewish community in the ghetto managed to create a unique culinary tradition that still influences Roman cuisine today.

The Origins of the Roman Jewish Cuisine

The Italian Jewish cuisine is a fusion of different culinary traditions. It combines elements from Sephardic Jews expelled from Spain and Portugal during the Inquisition, Ashkenazi Jews who migrated from Central and Eastern Europe, and local Roman flavors.

Fun fact: The Roman Jewish cuisine is also known as “Cucina Giudaico-Romana” or “Cucina Ebraica Romana” in Italian.

The Role of Ingredients

Artichokes: Artichokes are an integral part of Roman Jewish cooking. The traditional dish “Carciofi alla Giudia” (Jewish-style artichokes) involves frying whole artichokes until they become crispy and golden brown. This method creates an enticing contrast between the crunchy exterior and tender heart.

Offal:

Jewish cuisine often incorporates offal, which refers to organ meats such as liver, kidney, and spleen. These ingredients are used in dishes like “Coratella” (a sautéed mix of lamb offal), “Animelle” (breaded and fried sweetbreads), and “Trippa alla Romana” (tripe cooked with tomato sauce).

Pasta:

Pasta plays a significant role in Italian cuisine, including Jewish recipes. A popular pasta dish among Roman Jews is “Gnocchi alla Romana” (Roman-style semolina dumplings) made with semolina, milk, and cheese.

Traditional Dishes of the Roman Jewish Cuisine

Carciofi alla Giudia: As mentioned earlier, this dish is a highlight of Roman Jewish cuisine. The artichokes are deep-fried until crispy and served whole. It is a must-try when exploring the culinary heritage of the Jewish Ghetto in Rome.

Pajata: Pajata is a traditional Roman dish made from the intestines of unweaned veal. The intestines are cooked with tomato sauce until tender and creamy. It is often served with rigatoni pasta.

Baccalà alla Giudia: This dish features salted cod that has been soaked, battered, and fried. The result is a delicate and flavorful fish dish that perfectly embodies the fusion of Jewish and Roman flavors.

The Legacy Continues

The Roman Jewish Ghetto may have been dismantled in 1870, but its culinary legacy lives on. Today, you can find numerous restaurants in Rome dedicated to preserving and showcasing the traditional dishes of the Jewish ghetto.

  • Nonna Betta: Located near the ruins of Portico d’Ottavia, Nonna Betta offers authentic Roman Jewish cuisine in a family-friendly setting.
  • Giggetto al Portico d’Ottavia: This historic restaurant has been serving Roman-Jewish cuisine since 1923. It is renowned for its delicious Carciofi alla Giudia.
  • Da Danilo: While not exclusively focused on Jewish cuisine, Da Danilo serves classic Roman dishes influenced by the flavors of the Jewish ghetto.

Exploring the Jewish Ghetto’s culinary heritage is not only a delicious experience but also a journey through history. The combination of bold flavors, unique ingredients, and cultural influences makes Roman Jewish cuisine a true gem in the gastronomic landscape of Rome.